In this entry of forgotten arts of the Old Bazaar, we present you with an art often related to opulence, that is to say, the art of fur making. Fur garments have been worn since ancient times. Apart from their luxurious appearance, they provide perfect protection from the cold weather, help to reduce stiffness rheumatism due to cold. To learn more about fur making in Macedonia, we visited the Marija Furriers, located in the heart of the Old Bazaar in Skopje.
A Family Business Linking Generations
A love of fur has been maintained within the family of Trajko and Marija Dimovski for 75 years. In spite of the fact that fur making requires long hours of hard work, the couple Trajko and Marija managed to pass their love for this art down to their daughters Pandora and Olivera.
What is Fur?
As we entered the furrier shop we were greeted with the welcoming face of its furrier apprentice and sales person, who was more than willing to lead us into the unknown (for us) world of fur making.
When it comes to fur making, we need to understand first what fur is. In short, fur is a synonym for animal hair, and in this context in particular from mammals with extensive body hair coverage.
Fur typically consists of two layers of hair. The lower layer is made of ground hair or down hair, whose wool hairs tend to be shorter, flattened, curly, and denser than the top layer. Its principal function is thermal insulation.
The upper layer is called guard hair and it consists of longer, coarser, straighter hair that sticks out through the down hair, forming a visible coat. It is water-repellent, and protects the ground hair from rain. It is the color, texture, and shine of this upper layer that fur lovers often look at when choosing a fur garment to buy.
Common animal sources for fur clothing and accessories include: fox, rabbit, mink, beaver, ermine, otter, sable, seal, cat, dog, coyote, chinchilla, and possum.
Working with Fur
The kind furrier explained that fur making is a painstaking and complex process which includes first the preparation and then the tailoring of each piece of clothing. Sourced from natural material, the “fabric” is frequently irregular in size, shape and colour, which complicates the fur makers’ job. The furrier is always careful to make sure he has enough matching pieces to finish whatever it is he plans to make.
Before fashioning his wares, the furrier sorts the tanned pieces of fur into matching batches suitable for different articles of clothing. During this process the tailor measures a “template” for a coat, for example, which is then laid out for a fur coat. This template helps the fur coat maker to assign pieces of fur to certain parts of the coat and see how they will look before he starts to assemble the coat.
This matching process is done for every fur garment or accessory, and of course the larger or more complex the article, the more difficult it is to match all of the pieces in the pattern.
Often times the furrier also glazes the fur to make it appear more lustrous.
Making the Right Fur for Each Customer
When asked which products sell best, the sales person, smiling, told MAKstack, “A little bit of everything. We make classic garments that are timeless styles, as well as follow new trends, making clothing that is fashionable in western Europe before those fashions takes off here. That way we keep in step with market demand.”
Touching on the subject of price, he said that fur making was an expensive business in general, and price depends entirely on what type of fur and quality of coat you are looking for. A soft chinchilla fur can by no means be bought at the same price as more common Macedonian rabbit or fox. But true fur lovers, he insisted, can find products to fit any size budget. The secret is to find garments of good style and quality construction that ensure years of beauty and utility.
How to Care for Fur Garments
He added a few tips for taking good care of fur garments:
- They should not be washed or worn in rainy weather.
- They should only be dry cleaned.
- It is important to air them out from time to time, because storing them in sealed bags or other containers can speed up fur decay.
- One should also not wear a garment for too long traveling or resting, since sitting for long hours on a fur coat can crush the fur.
All these are recommendations to maintain fur in optimal condition.
Despite the greatest caution, however, sometimes damage occurs. In that case the furrier does his best to restore the garment using all the skill necessary to make it look new again. Furriers can also tailor a fur garment to fit changes in a customer’s weight or to make it more fashionable as styles change.
Go Get Yourself a Fur!
If this has tickled your curiosity and you wish to take a look at Marija Furriers, their welcoming shop assistant will gently lead you into making the right choice for purchasing a fur garment of your very own.
Marija Fur shop
Old Bazaar
Skopje
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