The Art of Filigree

Filigree is the delicate art of working complex designs in gold, silver or other fine twisted wire.  It is always made by hand and has been used for centuries to decorate metal jewelry and other objects of an ornamental nature, especially book covers, boxes and religious implements.

It is a very old craft, with evidence of widespread use even in ancient times.  It is said that the high point for filigree production was in Greek and Etruscan work of the 6^th through 3^rd centuries BCE.  Filigree jewelry was very popular in classical Greece and Rome.

Filigree workmanship flourished during the 6^th to 12^th centuries in Constantinople and in European monasteries, where craftsmen studied and copied the designs of Byzantine masters.  Reliquaries, gospel covers and crosses were popular items, often worked into designs together with polished semi-precious stones and decorated with enamel.

The Moors brought filigree to Spain, and the Spaniards carried it to colonies in South America.  Many fine and delicate designs are still produced in both places.

Macedonian filigree is a well known art still practiced in the filigree centers in Bitola, Ohrid, Struga and Skopje.  Richly ornamented pieces adorn the native formal costume in locations around Macedonia.  Filigree silver buttons of wire-work and small bosses are worn by the peasants as part of native dress.  In addition to local use, these highly prized treasures are distributed around the world.

In 2009, the famous blue filigree butterfly, a well known piece crafted in the early 1900s, now in the Museum of Macedonia collection, was chosen to grace the cover of the first Macedonian Superbrands publication.  Superbrands is an international organization that publishes annual guides to top brands in over 80 different countries.  They chose the filigree butterfly for its intrinsic beauty and as an example of fine Macedonian craftsmanship worthy of praise on the international stage.

These days real jewelry is often substituted by mass production or costume jewelry suitable for everyday use, but at the Dzeljo Filigree Shop they preserve the old art of hand crafted filigree, offering only the finest work available.  When we entered their shop we were immediately impressed by the exquisite beauty surrounding us in the fine assortment of jewelry and boxes.  There were even some old Macedonian pieces, each unique in form and appearance. Since every piece is made by hand, no two are alike.  There is no mass production when it comes to authentic filigree.

We spoke with Dzeljo’s son Zuni, a filigree artist.  He compared his work as an artisan to that of the finest surgeons, since both require great skill and a steady hand. It gives him great satisfaction to know that he is both a creator of beautiful jewelry and an ambassador of Macedonian culture.

When asked where he finds his raw material, he surprised us by saying that many of his customers bring it to him themselves, and ask for a specific design they already have in mind.  Tradition runs deep in the world of filigree.

Zuni said the typical piece takes only a couple of days to make, maybe three or four if it is very complicated. Curiously enough, he mentioned that he can only work when he is in the right mood. Only then do the doors to infinite shapes and ideas open up, sharpening his concentration enough for him to do his work well.

When it comes to buying filigree, you need to be careful who you trust.  There is a lot of false filigree sold on the market at cheaper prices. The difference between real and fake can often be found in the thickness of the jewelry itself.  The best pieces are thin and delicate.

Tough economic times have made life and business hard for artisans like Zuni, but he has confidence in the quality of his work.  Those who seek the finest and most beautiful filigree know their way to his shop.

Share your thoughts about filigree by posting a comment.

Vist this store:

Dzeljo Filigree Shop
Old Turkish Bazaar
Number 39
Skopje

[Show as slideshow]

[View with PicLens]