Long before Holiday Inn, the Four Seasons and Sheraton became world famous names for travel lodging, the Kurshumli Inn (MK: Куршумли Ан) offered a safe haven to weary travelers in the heart of Skopje. Nobody knows for sure when the Inn was built, but we do know that it was built as a memorial to Mula – Musledin Hodza, probably around 1540 and1550. The name refers to the original roof, which was covered with lead (the Turkish word for lead is kurşum). The word kurshum in contemporary Macedonian language means bullet, so these days a lot of people confuse the meaning of its name.
When you walk in the yard, the grandiose two-story building stands tall, impressive with its decorated stone walls, numerous arches, and pyramid-shaped domes. The walls are one meter thick, which provides great insulation from hot weather. If you have ever been to Skopje in the blistering heat of summer you will appreciate the fresh breeze that seems to caress you in the courtyard.
In the central part of the yard there is a large fountain which offered refreshment and a resting place for merchants after a long day traveling. In those days there were no trains or planes and all the goods were carried on horses or mules. Sometimes it took months to get from place to place.
To avoid being robbed on the way, merchants congregated in traveling groups called caravans. These people were the regular guests who occupied the 60 rooms of the Kurshumli Inn, traveling to and fro throughout the Ottoman Empire, buying and selling their goods. The stables were in a separate yard on the west side with two entrances, one from the inn and another from the street. They could accommodate up to 100 horses.
In 1787 the Inn ceased to function and was converted into an infamous prison. Many Macedonian freedom fighters against the Turkish yoke were imprisoned and tortured there. In the period 1904 – 1914 it was restored as an inn. Today, the yard is used as a rockery, or lapidarium, of the archeological museum, exhibiting one hundred thirty tombstones, sarcophagi, reliefs, and ancient statues found all over the country.
There have been some recent attempts at renovation. The upstairs rooms have all been fitted with new doors and electricity has been installed. In the recent years Kurshumli Inn has been used for cultural events, concerts, and plays.
The Macedonian TV also used this place as a set for the king’s palace when they were filming “Macedonian Folk Stories,” an educational series that is hugely popular in Macedonia, especially among the younger population.
You can find the Kurshumli Inn in the Old Bazaar. It is situated right next to the Museum of Macedonia and very close to the Fortress.
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